1. Store your documents online.
“Scan, upload, digitize, or e-mail your docs to SlideShare, Posterous, or Google Docs. You’ll never have to worry about computer crashes. And try Microsoft OneNote. I don’t know how I lived without it for so long,” says Stephanie Crawford of Zeiltin InTown in Nashville, Tenn.

2. Minimize Distractions.
“Your office space should be dedicated only to things that help make you money or are for the practice of your profession,” says M. Colleen Klimczak, certified professional organizer with Peace of Mind in Chicago. “Are you using your office to store boxes of holiday decorations? In the interest of being ready to work when you sit down at your desk, taking out those extra personal items will help.”

3. Find Tech That Does Double duty.
“Save space with multifunction or ‘all-in-one’ equipment that prints, copies, and scans. The smaller footprint of these machines makes them ideal for most space-challenged home offices, and they’re affordable,” says Lisa Kanarek, a Dallas-based home office expert and creator of www.workingnaked.net.

4. Prevent piles.
A business can generate an enormous amount of paper, so you need to figure out what to keep and where to put it, says Garreth Wilcock of Keller Williams Realty in Austin, Texas.

“I follow a one-touch system. If I get a piece of mail or a contract, it has only a limited number of options-it can go straight to trash, it can go to storage, I can delegate it, or I can work on it right now,” Wilcock says. “The system prevents random piles from forming.”

5. Maintain your files.
“Just because you got organized once doesn’t mean your office will stay that way,” Klimczak says. “It’s an ongoing process. You need to set up a document retention policy. Keep the most timely files closest to your desk. My ‘tickler folder’ with information on prospective clients and pressing items is always nearby.”

6. Set up an area suitable for guests.
“If you’re going to be meeting with clients in your home office, set up a space with guest chairs and a table of some sort,” Kanarek says. “If you don’t have space in your office, you can use an adjacent room, like a dining room, for meetings. Just be sure the space is clutter-free and readily available.”

7. Don’t get sidetracked.
When you’re doing work at home, there are so many other things calling for your attention.

“I use my trusted kitchen clock to keep me focused,” says Lourdes “Luly” MacPharlaine, with Prudential Northwest Properties in Lake Oswego, Ore. “I set my clock for 50 minutes, and during those minutes, I stay on task. Then, 10 minutes are set for me. I get up and stretch, exercise, talk to the cats, munch, go outside, turn the TV on, whatever. The cycle repeats until the whistle blows at 6 p.m.”

Published: April 2010 REALTOR magazine

Reprinted from REALTOR® magazine with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®. Copyright 2008. All rights reserved.

Article From Houselogic.com

By: Douglas Trattner

Published: August 28, 2009

When deciding to repair or replace appliances, consider age, repair cost, pricing, energy efficiency, and whether to modify your kitchen to accommodate a new unit.

When your refrigerator, dishwasher, or washing machine act out, you may feel torn about whether to call a technician or junk the unit in favor of something new. In times of plenty, it’s easy to convince yourself that a product requires replacement when all it really needs is a minor repair. But today, your more prudent self may be scrutinizing every financial decision. Conversely, the cost of repair can be a case of throwing away good money that could be better spent on a more energy-efficient model.

Use these six guidelines to home in on the smart choice for you the next time your appliances behave badly.

1. STILL UNDER WARRANTY?

Here’s the simple part. Check the owner’s manual and your records to see if the unit is still under warranty. If so, schedule a service call with an authorized technician.

Warranties vary widely between manufacturers, appliances, even retailers. Most cover parts and labor for a specified time, followed by a period of just parts. If you purchased an extended warranty from the retailer, examine that document as well.

2. NO LONGER UNDER WARRANTY-HOW OLD IS IT?

The closer an appliance is to the end of its average useful life, the wiser it is to replace rather than repair, says Jill A. Notini, vice president of communications for the Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers. Average Useful Life is the typical age at which an appliance needs to be replaced because it dies or proves too costly to repair.

Given that most refrigerators last an average of 14 years, it may not be financially prudent to repair a 12-year-old model. Conversely, it might make sense to fix an 8-year-old built-in oven knowing that generally, it should last 16 years.

3. THE 50% RULE

For appliances that are no longer under warranty but still in the prime of their useful life, consider the 50% rule. If the cost of the repair will be more than half the price of a comparable replacement, it’s generally wise to replace it, says Celia Kuperszmid Lehrman, deputy home editor at Consumer Reports magazine. The rationale? For the price of the repair and one future repair, you can enjoy a more reliable new machine.

To help make your decision, get a repair estimate. Service calls come with a price whether or not the appliance gets fixed, so factor that into your decision. Angie’s List pegs the average cost of an appliance service call at $60 to $100, not counting the repair itself. Many service providers will deduct these charges if they’re hired to complete the repairs. If you decide to go ahead with the repair, expect additional service visits to complete the process.

4. CAN YOU FIX IT YOURSELF?

Because labor accounts for more than half the cost of a typical repair, you can save big by tackling jobs yourself. Numerous online resources can help diagnose and fix common appliance ailments. Many of these same sites also maintain databases of owner’s manuals while connecting appliance owners with reputable parts suppliers.

The downside? You risk causing additional damage to machines if you’re not the handy person you thought you were. Worse, there’s the danger of physical harm. And self-help repairs often nullify warranties.

5. FACTOR IN FUTURE ENERGY AND WATER SAVINGS

Present-day appliances are so much more energy and water efficient than previous models that it can be fiscally wise to upgrade rather than repair. A modern refrigerator uses roughly half the electricity of its 20-year-old predecessor, says Notini. New dishwashers get plates every bit as clean as older machines while using a fraction of the water and energy.

But replacing an aging appliance with a new highly efficient one still requires some evaluation. “If you intend to stay in your home for another 10 to 15 years, it may be worthwhile to upgrade to the latest efficient model, Notini says. If you’re planning a move soon, it may be smarter to repair it and pass it on to the next homeowner.

6. TAKE INTO ACCOUNT HIDDEN COSTS

There’s more to the cost of replacing an appliance than the price of the new machine. If you have built-in cook-tops and refrigerators, you may face costly modifications to countertops and cabinetry when you replace, says Lora C. Donoghue, a kitchen designer in Charlotte, N.C. Even so-called standard-size machines may not fit into the same space as your previous model as standards continue to evolve.

Or the placement of water connections and power outlets may differ. And switching from an electric range to gas can involve a costly visit from the plumber or utility company. Likewise, upgrading from an older gas range to a newer one with electronic features may require the installation of a new wall outlet.

Although these guidelines can help you make an orderly fiscal decision, you may find that your enjoyment of a new unit-perhaps your dream appliance is on sale-simply trumps everything else.

Douglas Trattner has covered household appliances and home improvement for HGTV.com, DIYNetworks, and the Cleveland Plain Dealer. During the 10-year stewardship of his 1925 Colonial, he’s upgraded almost every appliance. After a lengthy deliberation, he recently replaced an aging top-load washing machine with an energy-efficient front-load variety.

Visit Houselogic.com for more articles like this.  Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS (R).

Copyright 2010. All rights reserved.

Article From Houselogic.com

By: Jeanne Huber

Published: September 16, 2009

Deciding whether to repair or replace roofing is largely an exercise in timing–you don’t want to reroof too soon and waste money, but you don’t want to wait too long either.

Eventually, all roofs wear out and need to be replaced. You don’t want to do it too soon, because you’ll waste money. But you also don’t want to wait too long, because then you’ll end up with leaks and expensive water damage. To get the timing right, you need to know how to assess the overall condition of your roof and identify early signs of roof failure.

The national average for a new asphalt shingle roof is $19,731, according to Remodeling’s 2009-10 Cost vs. Value Report, of which you’ll recoup $13,133 at resale (66.6%). For high-end materials, such as standing-seam metal, the cost jumps to as much as $37,000.

If most of your roof is still in good shape, a spot repair makes sense. But if there are signs the roof is wearing out, or if it is more than 20 years old, replacing it may be the smarter choice.

BE ALERT TO EARLY SIGNS OF A ROOF LEAK

If you check the condition of your roof at least once a year, you should be able to plan in advance for necessary repairs. Early signs of trouble include dark areas on ceilings, peeling paint on the underside of roof overhangs, damp spots alongside fireplaces, and water stains on pipes venting the water heater or furnace.

From the outside, you can assess your roof’s health by viewing it through binoculars. Warning signs include cracked caulk or rust spots on flashing; shingles that are buckling, curling, or blistering; and worn areas around chimneys, pipes, and skylights. If you find piles of grit from asphalt roof tiles in the gutters, that’s a bad sign, since the granules shield the roof from the sun’s damaging ultraviolet rays. Black algae stains are just cosmetic, but masses of moss and lichen could signal roofing that’s decayed underneath.

If you’re inspecting on your own and find worrisome signs, especially if the roof is old or there has been a storm with heavy wind or hail, get a professional assessment. Some roofing companies do this free; specialized roof inspectors, like those who work through the National Roof Certification and Inspection Association, charge about $175.

WHEN REPAIRS MAKE SENSE

You can usually repair a leak in a roof that is otherwise sound. The cost might range from $10 if you just need to squirt some roofing mastic into a gap alongside chimney flashing to $1,000 to fix a leak in a roof valley. If something sudden and unforeseen, such as a wind storm, causes a leak to appear, your homeowner’s insurance will probably cover the repairs. But you’re still responsible for limiting the damage, so put out buckets and try to get a local roofer to spread a tarp while you arrange for repairs. Insurance may not cover problems that stem from a worn-out roof or lack of maintenance.

THE COST OF RE-ROOFING

Stripping off old roofing and starting over typically costs about $3 a square foot for basic composition shingles. You may be able to leave an existing single layer and add a second layer on top of it for about $2 a square foot. If you plan to stay in the house for only a few years, this might seem like a smart way to save. But unless you’re so pressed for cash that your only other option is to risk leaks, it’s false economy. The second layer won’t last as long-only about 15 years rather than the standard 20-and you won’t get new flashing or underlayment or the opportunity to upgrade to features that make a roof stronger. Plus, when you go to sell, your re-covered roof will look a little lumpy, and potential buyers may interpret the two layers as a sign that other home improvements were also done on the cheap.

MAKE SURE TO FACTOR IN HIDDEN COSTS

When you evaluate bids, don’t just look at the total. A bare-bones estimate might include a single layer of 15-pound building paper under the roofing, while a better but more expensive bid includes 30-pound paper plus self-stick rubbery material along eaves to protect against damage from ice dams. Bids might also differ in whether they include the cost of disposing of the old roofing, on hourly rates for structural repairs, and on costs related to gutters.

Once you settle on a contractor, check to make sure the company is licensed and insured. Also discuss how the crew will minimize damage to landscaping, and who will pay for any that occurs. Schedule the roof work during dry weather, if possible, so your lawn doesn’t take as much of a beating. You’ll sleep better, too, if you’re not worrying about rain coming in when the roof is half-done.

GET THE MOST FROM A NEW ROOF

A new roof isn’t something most families buy happily. But getting multiple benefits from it makes it easier to shell out the money. As part of a new roofing project, you can incorporate many features that make your home more environmentally friendly, some of which may qualify for a federal tax credit to offset the cost. You can also choose roofing that’s more resistant to fire or damage from wind and hail, which may qualify you for a discount of 30% or more on your homeowner’s insurance policy.

Jeanne Huber writes a home-repair column for the Washington Post and has commissioned three new roofs on various houses over the years.

Visit Houselogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS (R).

Copyright 2010. All rights reserved.

Article From Houselogic.com

By: Oliver Marks

Published: September 24, 2009

The decision to repair or replace heating equipment depends on its age, the cost of repair, and how much money a more efficient system will save you.

It happens eventually in every home. On a particularly frigid morning, you wake up and crank the thermostat just like usual, but there’s no response: No comforting sound of the system firing up and no warmth rising from the air vents or radiators. Hopefully it’s a simple problem that’s a quick and inexpensive fix, like a tripped circuit breaker or a clogged filter. But occasionally the repair is so big and costly that it raises an age-old question that’s been asked about everything from station wagons to vacuum cleaners: Is it more cost effective to fix what you have or replace it? Here’s how to decide.

THINK SAFETY FIRST

If the problem presents a safety hazard, replacement is a no-brainer. For example, if your furnace has a cracked heat exchanger-the metal wall between the burning fuel and the air it’s heating-poisonous carbon monoxide gas could work its way into the household air supply, something you don’t want to risk. Other problems, like faulty electronics and stuck valves, can be repaired, which means you’ll need to do a cost-benefit analysis.

CONSIDER THE TYPICAL LIFESPAN

A 2007 study by the National Association of Home Builders and Bank of America found that furnaces for forced-air systems last an average of 15 to 20 years; boilers for hot-water radiators and baseboards last 13 to 21 years. So start by dating your system. Some technicians write the year the equipment was installed directly on the unit. Otherwise, when the machine is off and cool, look for a metal identification plate, usually on the inside of chamber door. Record the model and serial numbers from the plate, then call the manufacturer’s customer service number to get the date of manufacture.

Keep in mind that a 25- or even 30-year-old system isn’t necessarily ready for the scrap heap. The published lifespans are averages, which means half of all systems are spent by that time, and the other half are still working well. Use these numbers as ballpark guidelines only, suggests Gopal Ahluwalia, the NAHB study’s lead researcher.

ASSESS THE COSTS OF REPAIRING VERSUS REPLACING

To decide your system’s fate, you need more data: the cost of your repair or replacement options, which your service provider can give you. Depending on the size of your house and the brand of new equipment you choose, a new hot-air furnace typically costs $1,500 to $4,000, while a boiler for a hot-water system might run $4,000 to $8,000.

As a general guideline, consider replacement if the equipment is beyond three-quarters of its life expectancy and repairs will cost more than a third of replacement, suggests Larry Howald of Broad Ripple Heating and Air Conditioning in Indianapolis. In other words, it’s probably not worth spending $700 to repair a 15-year-old furnace you could replace for $2,000.

CONSIDER YOUR HEATING PLANT’S EFFICIENCY

In these days of high fuel costs and concerns over our carbon footprints, you should also consider your heating plant’s efficiency. Its Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency number (AFUE) measures the percentage of the fuel that’s converted to heat rather than being lost up the chimney or through other inefficiencies.

“If your system is 20 years old, its AFUE is probably about 70%,” says Greg Gill of Action Air Conditioning and Heating in San Marcos, California. Today’s minimum AFUE is 80%, which means you’ll burn 10% less fuel-and therefore spend 10% less money on your heating bills. You can go as high a 95% AFUE with new equipment, dropping your bills a whopping 25%. That kind of efficiency raises your equipment costs to $3,500 to $6,000 for a furnace and $8,000 to $10,000 for a boiler, but will also earn you a 30% tax credit (up to $1,500) from the federal government. And there are many local tax incentives and manufacturers’ rebates for super-efficient systems, too.

“It’s definitely worth doing the math to see if the high-efficiency model will pay for itself,” Gill says. According to Energy Star, upgrading to more efficient HVAC (heating, ventilation, and air conditioning) equipment can cut heating and cooling costs by about 20%, or $200 a year on average, which means you could recoup the extra investment in as little as five years.

A former carpenter and newspaper reporter, Oliver Marks has been writing about home improvements for 16 years. He’s currently restoring his second fixer-upper with a mix of big hired projects and small do-it-himself jobs.

Visit Houselogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS (R).

Copyright 2010. All rights reserved.

From Houselogic.com

By: Oliver Marks

Published: December 04, 2009

If you’re deciding whether to repair or replace central air conditioning equipment, assess the quality of your house’s ductwork and insulation first.

So much has changed in the world of air conditioning in recent years that if your system has almost any significant breakdown-or if it’s just not keeping you as cool as it used to-it may be worth replacing it instead of repairing it. As of 2010, for example, manufacturers must use a new kind of refrigerant that’s not an ozone-depleting chlorofluorocarbon. And a new system can use less than half the electricity of your old one while doing a far better job of keeping you cool and comfortable.

If your air conditioner is more than eight years old, repair is probably not worth the expense, unless it’s a simple problem like debris clogging the condenser unit or a worn fan belt. Still, to best weigh your repair-or-replace decision, ask your contractor to assess not just the condition of your existing equipment, but also the ducts that deliver the cool air and the overall quality of the insulation in your house. Improving those elements might increase the effectiveness of the system as much or more than installing new machinery.

ASSESS THE EFFICIENCY OF YOUR CURRENT SYSTEM

Even if your central air conditioner is just eight to 10 years old, it could suck up to twice the electricity that even a low-end new one would use. That’s because it operates at or below 10 SEER, or Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio, which is the amount of energy needed to provide a specific cooling output. Until 2006, 10 SEER was standard, but these days, the minimum allowed by federal law is 13 SEER. That translates to 30% less electrical consumption and 30% lower cooling bills than equipment installed just a few years ago.

For an 1,800 square foot house, a new 13 SEER unit will cost $3,000 to $4,000. You can double your energy savings by jumping up to 16 SEER, which will reduce cooling expenses by 60% over a 10 SEER unit. At $5,000 to $6,000, these super-efficient units are more expensive, but they qualify for a 30% federal tax credit of up to $1,500 and possibly local incentives, too. So the added cost might be negligible.

“Your installer can run the numbers for you to see whether it’s worth the additional cost,” says Ellis Guiles of TAG Mechanical in Syracuse, New York. “If you’re south of the Mason Dixon line, certainly, you can make up those dollars pretty quickly.”

INSPECT THE CONDITION OF THE DUCTWORK

You could upgrade to the highest efficiency gear available and still not feel comfortably cool on hot days. That’s because the mechanicals are only part of the central air system. The average house’s ductwork leaks 10% to 30% of its air before it can reach your living space, according to Pacific Gas & Electric. Before deciding whether to repair or replace your condenser and blower units, your technician should run a duct-leakage test, by sealing the vents and measuring how much air escapes the system.

If the ducts are inefficient, he can locate and seal the gaps, typically for $25 to $35 per vent (per “run” in industry jargon), or replace the ductwork entirely with new, insulated pipe for around $100 per run, according to Guiles. Your technician may recommend doing the duct improvements in conjunction with replacement of the mechanicals or may recommend only one or the other job.

CONSIDER THE BUILDING ENVELOPE ITSELF

If your house is poorly insulated, it’s putting a strain on your aging air conditioner. Resolving the house’s flaws may mean that your old system will have enough cooling power to continue to do the job for a few more years. Or it may enable you to buy a smaller replacement system, lowering your upfront and ongoing energy costs significantly.

Your heating and cooling contractor should assess and, if necessary, upgrade the building envelope. For example, he might seal gaps and cracks in the outer walls and attic floor, or he might blow insulation into the walls, either of which could knock as much as 30% off your heating and cooling costs. This work too may be eligible for federal and local tax credits-and in some cases, it may be a more effective solution to your cooling problems than replacing your equipment.

MAKE SURE A NEW SYSTEM IS SIZED RIGHT

If you decide to replace, make sure the contractor’s bid includes a load calculation, which is a computer printout showing how big a system you need and why.

Air conditioning is measured by the ton, which is the cooling power of a one-ton block of ice melting in 24 hours. Some old-school installers use a ballpark estimate for sizing equipment-say, one ton for every 400 or 600 square feet of living space. But that typically leads to systems that are too big, according to Greg Gill of Action Air Conditioning and Heating in San Marcos, Calif. Not only do oversized systems cost more, but they also do their cooling work too quickly, which means more frequent on/off cycles, wearing out components and gobbling electricity. Plus, they don’t have a chance to effectively dehumidify the air.

Good contractors use load-calculating software that factors in such data as the number of windows in your house, the thickness of insulation, the configuration of the attic, and the building’s orientation to the sun. It produces not only an exact tonnage requirement, but determines how much cool air each room needs. All bids (get at least three, from licensed, well-regarded companies) should include this one-page printout

A former carpenter and newspaper reporter, Oliver Marks has been writing about home improvements for 16 years. He’s currently restoring his second fixer-upper with a mix of big hired projects and small do-it-himself jobs.

Visit Houselogic.com for more articles like this.  Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS (R).

Copyright 2010. All rights reserved.

Water Heaters: Repair or Replace?

Article From Houselogic.com

By: Joe Bousquin

Published: August 28, 2009

When deciding whether to repair or replace a water heater, consider its age, the severity of the problem, and how much money a new energy-efficient unit will save.

Chances are you don’t give your water heater much thought-until you get hit with that first icy-cold shower, or go down to the basement to find the unit sitting in a puddle of water. Then you have to think fast: Repair it or replace it?

If it’s a conventional storage-tank water heater nearing the end of its 10- to 13-year life span, the answer is easy. New models are up to 20% more efficient, saving as much as $700 in energy costs over the life of the unit. If your water heater is only a few years old, whether it’s worth fixing depends on the severity of the problem and the cost of the repair. Not sure whether to repair or replace? Here are some considerations to help you decide.

IS IT A MAJOR PROBLEM OR A MINOR ONE?

A conventional water heater is simple. Cold water enters the tank, where it gets heated by an electric element or gas burner. A thermostat regulates the temperature (usually between 120 and 140 degrees). As the water heats up, pressure builds inside the tank. When you turn on a tap, the pressure is released, sending hot water to the faucet.

Because there are few moving parts, not much can go wrong. Before you even pick up the phone to call for service, check the basics, such as the pilot light in a gas unit and the circuit breaker in your electrical panel for an electric one. “Make sure it’s not a control issue first,” says Mike Rogers, senior vice president at home performance firm GreenHomes America. “It could be an easy fix.”

Other possibilities include a burner or element going bad, the thermostat failing, or a stuck valve. Repairing or replacing those parts is usually not expensive; pros like Sean Hicks of home warranty company Warrantech say a plumber should be able to do the job for between $150 and $300. If the water heater is relatively new, that might make sense. But if it’s more than 10 years old, or if the tank is leaking, that’s another story.

WHEN REPLACEMENT IS THE ONLY CHOICE

Over time, water heater tanks can corrode, the result of naturally occurring minerals in the water reacting with the steel. Once a tank springs a leak, repair isn’t an option.

The good news here is that today’s models are far more energy-efficient than those of even a few years ago. Manufacturers now inject foam insulation between the tank and its outer shell, resulting in much higher heat retention. Glass liners on the inside mean the tanks are less prone to corrosion, too. “Today, that water heater is more like a giant Thermos,” says David Chisholm of manufacturer State Water Heaters.

Expect to pay between $500 and $1,500 to purchase and install a new conventional storage unit. A high-efficiency model that meets Energy Star standards saves up to 20% in energy costs. Tankless, heat pump, and solar units offer even bigger savings and also qualify for a federal tax credit of 30% of the total cost of equipment and installation, up to $1,500. While substantially more energy efficient, these types of water heaters can cost three to five times more to buy and install, so consider payback carefully. “If you’re going to be in the home 15 or 20 years, you’ll get your money back,” says Warrantech’s Hicks. “If you move a lot, you won’t.”

MAKE SURE TO FACTOR IN HIDDEN COSTS

Even with a conventional water heater, replacement might not be as simple as hauling out the old one and hooking up the new. Many cities have updated their building codes in recent years, so if you replace your water heater, you may have to upgrade the mount it sits on, the size or type of its venting system, the drain pan underneath it, even the supply pipes. Before work starts, ask your installer to tell you about any additional costs.

If you know your way around plumbing tasks, you may be able to install the new unit yourself. Most manufacturers provide detailed instructions. You’ll need to turn off the water and gas or electric before you begin, and take particular care to vent gas models properly.

GET THE MOST FROM YOUR WATER HEATER

Whether you repair it or replace it, your water heater will perform better and last longer if you flush the tank once a year to remove sediment. A bonus: Without all that gunk inside, it will operate more efficiently, saving you money. Also, check the anode rod-sometimes called the sacrificial rod-every three years. An aluminum or magnesium probe inside the tank, it collects corrosive elements and should be replaced when it gets caked or eaten away. A new one costs about $30. Stay on top of these simple maintenance tasks, and you can avoid thinking about your water heater again for a good long time.

Joe Bousquin’s work has appeared in the Wall Street Journal, Kiplinger’s Personal Finance, and Men’s Journal. The happy owner of a 79-year-old home in Sacramento, Calif., he has a new reverence for his water heater.

Visit Houselogic.com for more articles like this.  Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS (R).

Copyright 2010. All rights reserved.

A professional stager can help you set your listing apart. Here are some questions you’ll want to ask to find the best person for the job.

A staged home makes a great impression on buyers. But if you’re not up to the task, how do you find the right person for the job?

Property Merchandiser Anthea Click of Nashville, Tenn., says the answers you get to these questions will tell you a lot.

1. Can I see your portfolio? It’s not enough to ask a few questions over the phone. Meet stagers in person and review their portfolio-it’s a sneak peek of their capabilites.

Are their example pictures attractive? Are they presented neatly? Does the home you want to stage mesh with the style of the staging pro?

2. What is your training and background? The home staging industry is largely unregulated, so it’s important to find out if stagers have been trained and what their certifications mean.

Is their background in in real estate? Have they staged homes in your seller’s price range? Do they know the conditions of the market and what it will take to get the house sold?

3. Do you have a specialty? Many stagers specialize in a specific type of home, such as lofts, condos, starter homes, or luxury homes. Do your homework to make sure the stager’s specialty is what you’re looking for; high-end décor might not look right in a lower-priced listing.

Think proportionally, as well. If stagers usually work in large, more spacious homes, their furnishings may be too big for a smaller, urban condo.

4. How do you communicate with home owners? Make sure the stagers you hire have a sense of tact; they should be able to speak with your clients professionally and compassionately.

When it comes to a person’s home, the discussion can get sensitive fast. Request that your stager go over the presentation and talking points with you before meeting the sellers. “Your stagers are representative of your business,” Click says. “If they don’t communicate well with your clients, it doesn’t look good.”

5. Do you have other marketing ideas to bring to the table? Some stagers see their role as going beyond simply prepping a home for sale; they often have other strategies for piquing interest in the property. “If buyers aren’t walking through the door, the staging means nothing,” Click says.

Ask if there are alternative ways you can work together. For example, rather than a traditional open house, Click has cohosted cooking events with practitioners.

Published: April 2010 REALTOR magazine

Reprinted from REALTOR® magazine with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®. Copyright 2008. All rights reserved.

It can be pricey to heat or cool a home. By checking the home’s energy efficiency, you might unveil some ways to trim monthly costs.

You don’t necessarily need a pro to assess your property’s energy deficiencies. With a little elbow grease, you can get a good sense of where your home is leaking hot and cool air.

Inspect exposed ducts.

They may not work efficiently if they’re dirty, have small holes, or if they pass through unfinished portions of the home and aren’t insulated. Look for whether intersections of duct pipe are joined correctly. Since ducts are typically made out of thin metal that easily conducts heat, uninsulated or poorly insulated ducts in unconditioned spaces can lose 10 percent to 30 percent of the energy used to heat and cool your home.

Look for stains on insulation.

These often indicate air leaks from a hole behind the insulation, such as a crack in an exterior wall.

Check insulation R-value or thickness.

Where insulation is exposed (in an attic, unfinished basement, or around ducts, water heaters, and appliances), use a ruler to measure thickness, recommends the Department of Energy. Use an online insulation calculator to compare your results against those suggested for your region. Only a professional’s thermographic scan can reveal if insulation is consistent within a wall; it can settle or may not be uniformly installed.

Check your home’s exterior envelope.

Hold a candle or stick of incense near windows, doors, electrical outlets, range hoods, plumbing and ceiling fixtures, attic hatches, and ceiling fans in bathrooms. When smoke blows, you’ve got a draft that may need caulking, sealant, weather stripping, or insulation.

Published: April 2010 REALTOR magazine

Reprinted from REALTOR® magazine with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®. Copyright 2008. All rights reserved.

April 2010 REALTOR magazine

How does your home smell? It might be worth an extra sniff because buyers certainly will take notice.

Sensory research shows that the smell of a home can affect a person’s mood, according to Terry Molnar, executive director of The Sense of Smell Institute, a New York-based organization that focuses on the importance of smell to human psychology, behavior, and quality of life.

A light floral fragrance can put people in a more pleasant mood, while citrus scents, such as lemon and grapefruit, tend to have an energizing effect, he says. “Vanilla is one scent that’s universal around the globe,” Molnar says. “People find it comforting and relaxing.”

But be careful: When you add smells to a home, it can be viewed as an attempt to cover up a bad odor. And if that’s the intent, it can make the problem worse.

So what if you do need to get rid of a bad smell? Here are some ideas from staging professionals:

Take the trash out.

It’s simple, but it can make a big difference. When the home is being shown, advise sellers to empty the garbage often.

Snuff out the smoke.

Encourage sellers to eliminate all smoking inside and even outside, particularly when the doors or windows are open. An ionizer can help remove smoke smells.

Watch the cooking.

The smell of lamb, broccoli, garlic, fish, and eggs can stick around long after the food has been eaten.

Wash Fido.

Pets can be a big source of smells. Limit the pet to an outdoor area or a certain room in the house that can be regularly cleaned, says staging professional Kellie Frooninckx, owner of Virtual Enriching Homes in Phoenix. Also, clean the pet’s bedding regularly.

April 2010 REALTOR magazine

How can you make that condo stand out from others on the block?

Sales of condominiums and co-ops accounted for nearly 13 percent of all home sales in 2009, according to the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®, and in many markets that number is much higher.

But with inventory still high in some areas, buyers may have a tough time making up their mind. Here’s how to make sure your condo listings create a great first impression.

1. Make the front door shine.

Keep it simple, clean, and attractive, says Debbie Rumsey with Century 21 Sea Coast in Encinitas, Calif. If the front door is exposed to the outside, remove knickknacks such as wind chimes and add a healthy potted plant. And don’t forget a fresh welcome mat.

2. Get buy-in from the neighbors.

A friendly smile from a neighbor can be just what a buyer needs to make an offer, says Joan Lorberbaum Moore of Lang Realty in Boca Raton, Fla. “I make it a point to introduce myself to the residents of the neighboring apartments when I take on a new listing.”

3. Show off hidden treasures.

If the front of the building is blah, then highlight a different area as your main property photo, says Margaret Goss of Baird & Warner in Winnetka, Ill. For example, focus on the back of the building to show off attractive amenities such as a pool or garden.

4. Tidy up the mail.

In multifamily buildings with a central area for mailboxes, add a nice basket for overflow mail, says Elizabeth Bolton of Coldwell Banker in Cambridge, Mass. Also, make sure hallways and stairs are swept or vacuumed and that shoes aren’t left outside the doors.

5. Team up with the HOA.

When there are many units for sale in the same building, why not work together to make sure the building is looking its best? Christopher Watters of Texas Ranch & Home Realty in Austin, Texas, suggests attending a condo association meeting to discuss simple improvements such as sprucing up the lobby, planting flowers, or adding flattering external lighting.